Kernavė (Polish Kierniów) is a tourist and archeological resort in southeast Lithuania (Širvintos district municipality), and was once the medieval Capital of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania.
Kernavė is at the center of one of the Lithuanian districts. In 1999, 318 people lived in Kernavė. The town is clean and surrounded by nature. The southern part borders on a nature reservation. Kernavė is situated near the bend of the Neris and the Pajauta Valley, next to the area of historic hillfort mounds.
The area of Kernavė was scarcely inhabitated since the end of Paleolithic era with the number of settlements significantly increasing in Mesolithic and Neolithic.
Kernavė (then under the name of Kierniów) became a subject of interest in the middle of 19th century, when a romantic writer, Feliks Bernatowicz depicted the area in his novel "Pojata, the Daughter of Lizdeika". The hillforts were soon excavated by Tyszkiewicz brothers and Kondratowicz-Syrokomla.
The foundations of the church built in 1739 have been excavated. This wooden church was moved in 1935 to Krivonys. A concrete Monument with a cross erected in 1930 during the celebrations of the 500th anniversary of Vytautas death serves as a reminder of the Vytautas Church built in 1420.
In the grounds of the ancient churches, from the 15th to the 19th century, the people of Kernavė were buried. Two chapels stand nearby.
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The wooden chapel is an example of folk architecture. It is believed that it was built at the end of the 13th century on the Kernavelė estate, and moved to the Kernavė church. At the end of the 19th century the church used it as a storehouse. In 1920 a new church was built, and the chapel staffed to decay, since it was no longer part of the church. In 1959 it was repaired, and in 1993-1994 restored. The building belongs to the Kernavė parish. It is used to display exhibits of wooden church sculpture.
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The brick chapel from the 19th century houses the Mausoleum of the Romer family. It was built in 1851-1856 by the landowner Stanisław Romer. The chapel is built of brick and plaster, and is an example of late Classicism. It is small and has an octagonal plan, which is unusual for classicism. Inside, there is an opening in the floor which leads to the crypt. Coffins were bricked into its niches. Inside the chapel the altar's mensa, built of stones, has survived. Along the side walls there are black benches. Memorial plaques with the Coat of arms and names of the members of the Riomeriai family are attached to the walls.
After the First World War the chapel was neglected. It was repaired in 1959 and 1987. At the present time the chapel belongs to the Kernavė parish.
Both chapels are situated in the Kernavė archaeological and historical reservation. The present-day church was built between 1910 and 1920. Neo-gothic elements are dominant in the architecture.
During the 1980s, on the initiative of Monsignor Česlovas Krivaitis, the churchyard was repaired, new gates were built and the altar and interior were restored. The churchyard is decorated with Stations of the Cross, arranged by the artist Jadvyga Grisiūtė. In the churchyard there are two monuments built to commemorate the 600th anniversary of Christianisation and the 700th anniversary of the first mention in written sources of the name of Kernavė. The first monument depicts a hearth and a sword, the transition from Paganism to Christianity; the second, a knight with a sword standing between the city gates, the main part of the town Coat of arms. Millstones are incorporated into the structures of both monuments.
The grave of the priest, writer and promoter of the history of Kernavė, Nikodemas Švogžlys-Milžinas is near the monument commemorating the 700th anniversary of Kernavė.
In the church there are several valuable pieces of art. The Altar, two paintings, two sculptures, a small altar, three glasses and the bell are listed.
The neo-baroque altar is in the side nave. In its center is the painting Maria, on its sides are columns and sculptures of St. Peter and Saint Paul. Another five smaller sculptures depict St. Mary, two angels and two saints. All the sculptures belong to the Baroque style. The polychromatic architectural details of the altar are imitation marble, their features are bronze.
The painting Marija Škaplierinė (canvas, oil, metal, 220x120 CM) is on the altar in the central nave. It was painted in 1816 and depicts the Mother and Child, God the Father, and the Holy Spirit (a dove).
The painting The Holy Family (canvas, oil, 143x104 CM) comes from the 18th century. The painting shows the Mother and Child and a lamb. In the background is St. Joseph; above are angels. The composition is asymmetric, and has several lines of perspective.
Other pieces of art include a small altar from the early 19th century, two glasses from the beginning of the 19th century, one glass from the beginning of the 18th century, and a bell from the 17th century. The bell is made of Brass, 45 centimeters in diameter, cast in Vilnius in 1667.
In the 1980s, thanks to the efforts of Monsignor Ceslovas Krivaitis, a non-traditional Presbytery was constructed, and the surroundings were cleaned up.
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The church and presbytery began to receive famous guests visiting the town of Kernavė. In the presbytery is an exhibition of the way of life of parishioners, and historic and holy relics. In 1987 a museum of sacramental relics was opened in the old presbytery building.
At the parish hall the pre-war sculpture of the Iron Wolf has been rebuilt. The cultural activities of the church contribute much to the general historical and cultural life of Kernavė. A wide pavement goes from the church to the town. On both sides in the 80s commercial, administrative and cultural buildings were built. The State Kernavė Archaeological Historical Museum and the district office have moved into the cultural center (architect A. Alekna). At the end of the walkway is a pleasant two-storey brick building. It is Kernavė Primary School, built in 1929. Here, on December 28, 1930, the teacher J. Šiaučiūnas opened the first exhibition of the museum. He devoted his life to educational and cultural work at this school until his deportation on June 14, 1941 by Soviets. He died in Siberia on October 17, 1943.
In 1998 the school was repaired and restored. In 1998, by decision of the Board of the Širvintos District, the Kernavė primary school was given the name of Juozas Šiaučiūnas. In 1999 the school, and in the year 2000 the Kernavė museum, celebrated the 70th anniversaries of their foundation.
The old architecture of Kernavė is best preserved in Vilnius and Kriveikiškio streets. In the central part of the town, the buildings are mainly from the postwar period. The settlement is in harmony with the natural beauty of its surroundings. To the south of the town is the Archaeological and Historical Reservation, the spectacular natural relief on both sides of the Neris.
Tourists can stay in the recreation facility situated on Baltasis Hill, sit by a Bonfire and admire Neris, or greet the new day among the misty mounds.
In summer Kernavė comes to life. Celebrations and folk festivals are organized. Archaeological expeditions have been held for more than 20 years, in which Lithuanian and foreign archaeologists, students, and school children take part.
Kernavė is also famous for its traditional Rasa festivals. As early as 1967 a group of university students held the very first Rasa festival, which later became a tradition. For several decades it was not only a way to clean the soul, but also to protest against the humiliation of national consciousness and the forced implantation of Soviet traditions. Attempts to prohibit this festival were not successful.
As of writing (2005), Kernavė is famous for national celebrations of Mindaugas coronation day on the 6th of July. On that day a festival is held, where medieval authentic crafts, war games and folk music is presented. The craftsmen come from arround the Baltics and neighboring countries. The festival is so popular, that traffic jams because of people arriving from Vilnius queues for many kilometers on the entrance of Kernavė.